Knitting and crochet patterns

Yes, but do it methodically. To substitute the recommended yarn, first compare the fibre content, weight category, yardage per ball and 10×10 cm tension swatch. Choose a yarn with similar behaviour in drape, elasticity and stitch definition (for example, mercerised cotton for amigurumi, medium-twist wool for cables). Make a swatch in the pattern stitch, wash/block it and adjust the needle or hook size until you match the tension. Calculate the total yardage required by the pattern and buy with a 10–15% extra to avoid running short.

Keep the type of project in mind. For amigurumi, the finished size will change if you alter yarn weight; prioritise non-elastic yarns and use a slightly smaller hook than stated for a firm fabric (also adjust safety eye size and filling amount). For garments, choose yarns with similar behaviour after blocking; if you don’t reach gauge, consider making a different size. Although the safest option is to use the yarn suggested by the designer and brand, substitution works well if you follow these steps and always validate with a swatch.

It’s not always compulsory, but for garments, lace shawls and colourwork blocking makes a big difference: it evens out the stitches, stabilises the measurements and improves the drape. With animal fibres (wool, alpaca) wet blocking usually works best: soak, roll in a towel to remove excess water, shape and leave to dry flat. With cotton and linen it helps define edges after washing. With acrylics and synthetic blends, avoid direct heat: if you block, use steam at a distance, never pressing, to avoid “killing” the fibre.

Don’t block amigurumi or pieces that need a firm structure, as you could distort them. For hats, mitts or 1×1 ribbing, blocking should be gentle to preserve elasticity. Quick method: wash according to the label, remove excess water, lay flat on a surface (blocking mat), pin with t-pins or blocking combs to match the pattern, check measurements and leave to dry away from heat or sunlight. As a general rule, if the pattern recommends it or you want a neater finish, blocking is worth it.

Yes, but methodically. Most knitting and crochet patterns already include several sizes: choose according to your measurement (bust/hip) and the recommended ease, and check with a blocked swatch that your gauge matches. If you fall between two sizes, it’s usually safer to knit the larger and adjust the length afterwards. Adjusting length (body, sleeves) is straightforward: add or remove rows/rounds before the finishing or between marked sections. For shawls and top-down garments, you can try on as you go and decide where to stop.

To change widths, you’ll need some maths: check the stitch repeat (e.g. multiples of 4 sts) and add or remove repeats while keeping symmetry, increases/decreases and edge stitches. In raglans or circular yokes, distribute the increases proportionally; in seamed garments, adjust the armhole, sleeve cap and neckline according to the schematic. If your gauge doesn’t match, you can “jump” to another size in the pattern that, with your real tension, gives you the desired measurement. When in doubt, only alter length and sleeves; for complex width changes, stick to the original pattern or choose one written for your exact size.

Yes. The materials for each pattern are usually standard and easy to source: the pattern itself specifies the recommended yarn, total yardage, needle or hook size and accessories (stitch markers, darning needle, tape measure, blocking tools). Since these are brand and designer collections, the suggested yarns are available on the market and have clear equivalents in terms of fibre content, weight and 10×10 cm gauge. At Garmonyarns we stock patterns from Scheepjes (YARN The After Party and Pretty Little Things) and are adding Drops, Rico Design and others, making it easy to find the exact yarn or a very close match.

To be on the safe side, check the pattern’s materials list, calculate the total yardage and buy an extra 10–15% in case you need adjustments or want to lengthen sleeves/body. Needles and hooks are standard sizes, and the basic accessories are widely available. If the recommended yarn colour isn’t available, choose another shade of the same yarn; and if you switch to a different yarn, make a swatch and adjust the needle/hook size until you achieve the correct gauge. For amigurumi, also check the stuffing and safety eyes in the specified size to maintain the intended proportions.

Start by blocking your tension swatch and measuring again. Adjust your needle or hook size until you get as close as possible to the stated gauge. If it still doesn’t match, use the finished measurements and the recommended ease from the pattern as your guide: choose the size whose finished circumference is closest to your body measurement + the desired ease. In the knitting and crochet pattern collections this information is usually clearly specified.

Remember: if your tension is looser (fewer stitches in 10×10 cm), the garment will come out larger; if it’s tighter (more stitches), it will come out smaller. A practical solution is to knit a different size in the pattern to compensate for your actual gauge. In top-down designs you can try the garment on as you go and adjust the lengths along the way.

Yes, but compare fibre content, weight category, metres per ball and gauge. First calculate the total yardage of the pattern: recommended balls × metres per ball of the suggested yarn. Then divide that yardage by the metres per ball of your substitute yarn and round up; add an extra 10–15% for safety. Always check with a blocked swatch.

Keep in mind the type of project in the knitting or crochet pattern. For amigurumi, choose yarns with little elasticity and use a slightly smaller hook for a firm fabric; changing yarn weight will alter the finished size. For garments, prioritise yarns with similar drape and elasticity, and adjust size or needles according to your gauge. By following these steps, you’ll enjoy the knitting and crochet pattern collection without surprises.