Pony Cable Knitting Needles

Pony cable needles are curved to hold stitches more securely while on hold, reducing the risk of dropping them when turning your work. This V-shape provides stability when the pattern alternates cables, purl stitches or lace, and allows you to place the auxiliary needle in front or behind without the yarn sliding off easily, keeping the crossing neat and controlled.

With a straight or double-pointed needle, stitches are more likely to slip, especially with soft or loosely twisted yarns. The specific curve reduces this risk and speeds up your work. It also helps maintain even tension at the crossing point by preventing unintentional pulls when returning the stitches, which often happens when the auxiliary needle doesn’t give enough support.

Choose 2.50 mm when working with fine yarns, narrow motifs or only a few stitches in the cable, as it offers precision and avoids stretching the stitches too much. For thicker yarns or cables with multiple stitches, 4.00 mm provides more support and reduces the risk of the yarn tightening too much while on hold.

If in doubt, match the auxiliary needle size to your main needles, or go up half a size when the yarn is very slippery. What matters is that stitches slide back with control and the tension remains stable. Swatch the motif: a couple of repeats are enough to check if you need to adjust the size.

A handy rule: placing the auxiliary needle in front usually slants the cable to the left; placing it behind usually slants it to the right (unless the pattern specifies otherwise). With Pony cable needles, the curved shape helps stitches stay put while you knit the next ones, preventing the yarn from twisting.

When returning the held stitches, watch the direction of the loop and adjust the first two stitches to set the tension. Using markers at the start of the motif helps avoid mistakes in longer sequences. Be consistent (front or back) throughout the chart so the texture looks even and free of steps.

After each cable cross, knit the first two stitches with a slight tension adjustment (without pulling too tightly) to compact the area. Make sure the auxiliary needle lies parallel to the fabric edge and doesn’t pull outward; the curved shape of Pony cable needles helps keep this position without straining the yarn.

Another trick is to shift the cable one row earlier or later, if the pattern allows, to spread the stress across different stitches and avoid a visible join line. A gentle block at the end will set the cable structure and even out the surface, especially with fibres that have memory or little weight.

Yes, Pony cable needles work just as well in circular knitting and in flat knitting. In the round, keep the auxiliary needle close to the tips to avoid pulling the yarn when turning; in flat knitting, avoid leaving the auxiliary hanging on the side longer than necessary so the tension doesn’t open up. The curved grip supports both techniques without adjustments.

If you’re working with many repeats in a row, break the motif into blocks and use markers; this reduces errors when counting rows between cables. Switching between 2.50 mm and 4.00 mm according to yarn thickness can give you sharper texture without changing your main needle, keeping the fabric consistent with the pattern.

Wipe them with a dry cloth to remove lint and natural oils from your hands; aluminium keeps a smooth glide if the surface is residue-free. Store Pony cable needles in a case or tube alongside your pattern or markers to find them easily and avoid losing them mid-project.

Avoid placing weight on them or bending them, which could distort the curve. If working after wet blocking, dry the tools thoroughly before storage to preserve the smooth surface. Regularly check for burrs or sharp edges to protect your yarn and maintain even tension in complex motifs or multiple cable crossings per row.