Table of contents
Merino wool comes up in every conversation about soft, warm and comfortable garments, but what merino wool is in reality, what sets it apart from ordinary wool and why some wools itch while others do not are questions that are rarely answered with specific facts. At Garmon Yarns, we work every day with merino wools from Scheepjes, DROPS and Performance, and in this guide we share what we have learned from knitting with them: origin, actual micron count, properties, care and an honest comparison with the strengths and nuances of each one.
What exactly is merino wool?
Merino wool is the natural fibre obtained from the fleece of the Merino sheep, a breed that produces very fine, crimped and elastic fibres (between 15 and 24 microns). What sets it apart from ordinary wool is not its origin, but the fibre diameter: the lower the micron count, the softer it feels to the touch.
Ordinary wool is usually around 28–35 microns and often feels coarse when worn next to the skin. Merino wool generally sits below 24 microns, and extra-fine and superfine varieties fall to 15.5–18.5 microns. That difference, which looks minimal on paper, completely changes the experience both when knitting and when wearing the finished garment.
Which sheep does it come from and what makes it different from other wools?
Merino wool comes from the Merino sheep, a breed originally from the Iberian Peninsula that drove the wool trade in Castile for centuries. From the 18th century onwards, it was exported to Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and South America, and today these countries account for most of the world’s production. In Spain, the Merino flock is small but still exists, especially in Extremadura.
The difference compared with other sheep breeds is not down to one single trait, but to the combination:
- Very dense, highly crimped fleece: each Merino sheep produces more wool than average, and the fibres have a natural crimp that gives elasticity to the finished yarn.
- Extraordinarily fine fibres: that reduced diameter is why merino wool feels soft and does not itch against the skin.
- Extreme climate adaptability: the Merino sheep regulates its own temperature in deserts and cold regions, and that thermal performance carries over into the fibre.
- Moisture absorption: merino wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet to the touch, according to data from the wool industry (The Woolmark Company).
In our merino and virgin wool collection, we work mainly with European brands (DROPS, Scheepjes, Performance) whose fibres come from Australia, New Zealand and Uruguay, the three countries with the finest average Merino flocks in the world.
Types of merino wool according to fineness (micron count)
Not all merino wool is the same. The micron count (the average fibre diameter, measured in microns) is the technical detail that determines softness, price and recommended use. This classification follows the criteria of the International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO), the international wool federation:
| Type of merino | Micron count | Feel and use | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ultrafine merino | Up to 15.5 microns | Silky feel, barely noticeable on the skin | Premium garments worn directly next to the skin |
| Superfine merino | 15.6 – 18.5 microns | Very soft, suitable for sensitive skin | Baby garments, wool underwear |
| Extra-fine merino | 18.6 – 19.5 microns | Soft and comfortable, non-itchy | DK jumpers, cardigans, everyday accessories |
| Fine merino | 19.6 – 22.5 microns | Warm, slightly firmer | Outerwear, shawls, blankets |
| Medium merino | 22.6 – 24 microns | Durable and warm, less soft | Hard-wearing outer garments |
Below 18.5 microns, the fibre is already considered superfine, and this is the range that offers the “doesn’t itch” feel that so many knitters look for. In the Garmon Yarns catalogue, most of the merino yarns we sell are between 18.5 and 19.5 microns (extra-fine range), which is the sweet spot for quality and price in everyday garments.
Real properties of merino wool when knitting and wearing it
When knitters try merino wool for the first time, they always say the same thing: it is soft, it does not itch, it is warm without being stifling, and it goes a long way. Knowing what merino wool is on a technical level is useful, but what really defines the experience are the physical properties that are worth understanding so you know when it is the right choice and when it is not.
Thermoregulation: warm without overheating
The crimped structure of merino fibre traps small pockets of air that act as insulation. That same crimp also allows moisture to evaporate easily. The result: the garment keeps you warm in the cold and breathes when body temperature rises. That is why it is used so much in mountain clothing and baby garments; it regulates without suffocating.
Naturally odour-resistant
The keratin and lanolin present in the fibre make it harder for the bacteria responsible for bad odours to grow. In practice, a merino jumper can be worn for several days in a row without being washed after every use, something that does not happen with cotton or synthetic fibres. It is an ecological advantage that is rarely mentioned.
Soft feel without itch for sensitive skin
The itchy sensation depends on fibre diameter: below 22 microns, most people stop noticing it, and below 18.5 microns it practically disappears even on very sensitive skin. That is why extra-fine and superfine merino wool is the option for baby and children’s garments and for people who always thought they “could not wear wool”.
Added to this are other properties that knitters value when working with it: excellent elasticity (the garment regains its shape wash after wash), very good stitch definition (ideal for cables, lace and textured stitches) and a high yield per ball compared with more rustic wools of the same weight.
A nuance from experience. In our tests, superwash merinos tend to lose a touch of elasticity compared with untreated ones: they knit up just as well, but the finished garment bounces back a little less after washing. It is not a flaw, it is the cost of the treatment; it is worth knowing before choosing.
What is superwash merino wool and how does it differ from traditional merino?
Superwash merino wool is merino wool whose fibre surface has been treated to prevent felting during washing, which means it can be machine washed on a wool cycle. Traditional merino wool (non-superwash) keeps the natural scales intact, is more elastic and more ecological, but requires hand washing.
The superwash treatment essentially involves smoothing or coating the keratin scales that cover each wool fibre. These scales are what cause felting: when they rub together in hot water, they catch on each other and the garment shrinks. Superwash wool no longer has that problem.
The practical differences we have noticed:
- Superwash: easier to care for, machine washable at 30 °C, ideal for gifts or for anyone who does not want extra fuss. Slightly less elastic, with a somewhat more even sheen.
- Non-superwash: more natural, more elastic, livelier feel and a slightly more “rustic” texture. Requires hand washing but recovers its shape better over the years.
Which projects is merino wool best suited to?
Merino wool really shines in garments worn directly next to the skin and in projects where drape, stitch definition and durability matter. On the other hand, it is not the best choice for bags, baskets or accessories that need rigid structure.
Uses where its properties are most valuable:
- Jumpers, cardigans and jackets: extra-fine merino yarns in DK and Sport weights are the standard for comfortable all-year garments.
- Baby and children’s clothing: rompers, blankets, booties, hats and shawls. Look for a low micron count and Oeko-Tex Standard 100 or EN71-3 certification.
- Fine shawls and scarves: lace and fingering merino wool offer a drape and sheen that are difficult to achieve with other fibres.
- Socks: blended with 20–25% polyamide to add abrasion resistance.
- Hats and gloves: they make the most of its warmth and elasticity.
- “Plush” amigurumi: although cotton dominates this technique (as we explain in the guide to the best yarn for amigurumi), merino wool works well for toys with a very soft feel.
Where merino wool is not a good fit: rugs and wall hangings (maximum wear from friction), bags and structured baskets (merino wool is too soft), and projects on a very tight budget, where an acrylic blend will go further for each euro.
How to care for and wash merino wool without shrinking it
The short answer: it depends on whether it is superwash or not. Understanding what superwash merino wool is, as opposed to traditional merino, is the key to care: superwash can go in the washing machine on a wool cycle at 30 °C, while non-superwash needs hand washing in lukewarm water. Always check the ball band details before the first wash.
As importers and retailers, at Garmon Yarns we have found that most of the merino wools in our catalogue are superwash (including DROPS Merino Extra Fine and Scheepjes Merino Soft). Performance Merino Passion is the exception within our range: 100% extra-fine merino without superwash treatment.
These are the rules that work in every case:
- Lukewarm or cold water (maximum 30 °C). Hot water opens the fibre scales and encourages felting.
- Neutral detergent or one made specifically for wool. Enzyme detergents attack keratin.
- Do not rub, do not wring. Friction is the main cause of shrinking.
- Dry flat on a towel, never hanging from a hanger: the weight of the water distorts the garment.
- Store folded, not hanging, with natural moth deterrents (cedar, lavender).
One tip we repeat to every customer: if this is your first merino garment, knit a tension swatch and wash it exactly as you plan to wash the finished piece. Blocking changes the drape of the fabric, and it is better to discover that on 10 × 10 cm than on a whole jumper.
Comparison: 3 merino yarns from our catalogue knitted by us
At Garmon Yarns, we sell three merino references that suit different types of knitter: one economical and easy to wash, one very soft with microfibre, and one 100% natural without superwash treatment. These are our conclusions after knitting them at standard tension and washing them through several cycles to see how they behave in real use.
| Wool | Composition | Meterage | Strong point | Nuance to bear in mind |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DROPS Merino Extra Fine | 100% superwash merino | 50 g / 105 m (DK) | Best quality-price ratio in the catalogue; impeccable stitch definition | Slightly higher micron count than Performance; less “silky” to the touch |
| Scheepjes Merino Soft | 50% superwash merino + 25% microfibre + 25% acrylic | 50 g / 105 m (DK) | Very silky feel thanks to the microfibre; wide colour palette | Not 100% wool; less warm than pure merino in winter |
| Performance Merino Passion | 100% extra-fine merino (non-superwash) | 50 g / 125 m (Sport) | Natural feel, superior elasticity, more metres per ball | Requires hand washing; less colour variety than Scheepjes |
If you are starting out with merino, our recommendation is DROPS Merino Extra Fine: it combines excellent stitch definition, machine washability and a price that is not intimidating if this is your first serious project. If you want maximum softness to the touch, Scheepjes Merino Soft has the advantage of microfibre. And if you prefer a more traditional merino, 100% natural and with more metres per ball, Performance Merino Passion is the option we most recommend for shawls and fluid garments.
Now you know what merino wool is, how it is classified by micron count, what properties it has in practice and how to care for it. Merino wool is an investment fibre: a well-knitted, well-cared-for garment can stay with you for years without losing its shape or feel. If you need help choosing the right reference for your project, write to us via the website chat or visit our shop in Alcalá de Henares by appointment; we like to advise with the wool in hand.
Frequently asked questions about merino wool
Does merino wool shrink when washed?
Non-superwash merino wool shrinks if it is washed in hot water or rubbed, because the fibre’s natural scales catch on each other and the garment felts. Superwash merino wool has been treated to neutralise that behaviour and can be machine washed at 30 °C. To avoid unpleasant surprises, always knit a tension swatch and wash it as you intend to wash the finished garment before you start the project.
Can merino wool be dyed at home?
Yes, non-superwash merino wool takes acid dye (vinegar + food colouring or dyes made specifically for protein fibres) better than almost any other fibre used at home, because the keratin absorbs the pigment evenly. Superwash merino wool can also be dyed, but the colour turns out slightly flatter because the treatment closes part of the structure that helps the pigment bind. Always wash the skein after dyeing to remove any residue.
How much merino wool do I need for an adult jumper?
For a women’s size M jumper in stocking stitch using DK merino, you will need between 900 and 1,200 metres, which is approximately 9–11 balls of 50 g / 105 m (DROPS Merino Extra Fine or Scheepjes Merino Soft). For sizes L or XL, add 1–2 extra balls. The exact amount depends on the pattern, the size and your personal tension, so it is always worth buying one extra ball from the same dye lot to avoid colour differences.
What is the difference between merino wool and cashmere?
Merino wool comes from the Merino sheep and ranges between 15 and 24 microns in thickness. Cashmere comes from the undercoat of the cashmere goat and is even finer: between 14 and 19 microns. Cashmere is softer and more expensive, but it is also less elastic and less resistant to wear than merino wool. For everyday garments, extra-fine merino wool offers a much better quality-price ratio; cashmere is usually reserved for luxury accessories.
Is merino wool sustainable?
Merino wool is a natural, renewable and biodegradable fibre, and its durability (a garment lasts for years) reduces consumption compared with synthetic fibres. The critical point is traceability of animal welfare at source. That is why it is worth looking for wool with certifications such as Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) or Woolmark, which audit farming, shearing and traceability practices. In our merino collection, you will find references with these certifications.
Artículos relacionados
