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If you want to know what mohair is before buying it or starting a project, here is the essential point: mohair is a natural fibre obtained from the fleece of the Angora goat, and it stands out for its lightness, its characteristic halo and its excellent insulating power. In this article, we explain where it comes from, what types there are, which projects it suits and how to choose it well.
It is not the easiest fibre to start with, but once you get the hang of it, it becomes the natural next step towards light, elegant garments with the drape that sets carefully made pieces apart. At Garmon Yarns, we work with mohair from two origins — Turkish and European — to cover the two most common uses: mohair with silk for airy garments and mohair with merino and polyamide for those just starting out.
What is mohair and where does this fibre come from?
What mohair is, in one sentence: an animal fibre obtained from the fleece of the Angora goat, a breed originally from Ankara (formerly Angora, in Turkey). It is characterised by being light, fine, lustrous and highly insulating, with an airy halo that no synthetic fibre can imitate.
Despite the name, it has nothing to do with “angora”, which is the fibre from the Angora rabbit — a different animal and a different fibre. The main producing countries today are South Africa (more than 50% of global production), the United States (Texas) and Turkey. The goats are shorn twice a year, and each shearing produces a different fibre depending on the age of the animal.
What types of mohair are there: kid, yearling and adult?
There are four types of mohair depending on the age of the animal: kid (first shearing, 6 months), super kid (selected from the first shearing), yearling (one-year-old animal) and adult. The fibre becomes coarser with age, and as this happens softness decreases along with the price. The first two are the ones used in hand knitting.
| Type of mohair | Age of the animal | Thickness | Characteristics | Recommended use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kid mohair | Young goat, first shearing (6 months) | Very fine (23–27 microns) | Very soft, hardly itchy, delicate halo | Garments worn next to the skin, fine shawls, lightweight jumpers |
| Super kid mohair | Selected from the first shearing | Ultra-fine (under 23 microns) | Silky feel, subtle and elegant halo | Premium garments, tops, luxury shawls, blended with silk |
| Yearling mohair | Young animal (one year old) | Medium (28–30 microns) | More hard-wearing, slightly less soft | Cardigans, outerwear garments |
| Adult mohair | Adult animal | Coarse (over 30 microns) | Rustic, can feel itchy, very durable | Blankets, upholstery, structured coats |
In hand knitting, 90% of the balls you will find are kid mohair or super kid mohair, because they are the only types soft enough to wear directly against the skin without discomfort. Our entire selection of mohair yarns belongs to these two categories.
Properties of mohair and why it has that “halo”
The properties that make mohair special all come from the same factor: the structure and length of the Angora goat’s hair. This is where the famous halo comes from — that cloud of fine fibres surrounding the yarn — and with it the lightness, lustre and insulating ability that set this fibre apart.
These are the six properties that make the difference compared with other natural fibres:
- Extreme lightness: a 25 g ball of mohair gives between 200 and 240 metres of yarn. It is the natural fibre that offers the most metres per gram.
- Insulating power: the air trapped between the halo fibres acts as a thermal chamber. It is very warm without adding bulk.
- Natural lustre: subtle, similar to silk but more discreet. It is not an artificial shine; it disappears if blended with matte fibres.
- Limited elasticity: less elastic memory than merino wool. This is one of the reasons why it is almost always blended with another fibre in commercial yarns.
- Breathability: as it is a hollow animal fibre, it regulates moisture and feels less hot than you might expect from its insulating ability.
- Crease resistance: garments hardly crease at all when stored folded, unlike linen or cotton.
The halo, in addition to adding visual volume, softens the outline of each stitch and disguises small tension mistakes. That is why a garment knitted with mohair looks more refined, even when the tension is not perfect.
Which projects is mohair suitable for and which needles should you use?
Mohair works best in projects where weight matters and visual volume is valued: shawls, stoles, lightweight jumpers, airy tops, boleros and fine cardigans. Most balls are lace or fingering weight, and are knitted with needles between 3 mm and 4.5 mm depending on the effect you want.
For shawls and lace garments, it is knitted with slightly larger needles than the yarn would normally call for: this allows the halo to fill the spaces between stitches and creates the airy fabric that is characteristic of mohair. If you are unsure about the yarn weight you are working with, our guide to yarn weights will help you place it in relation to other fibres.
Where mohair does not work well: socks (it sheds and does not have abrasion resistance), amigurumi (the halo distorts the stitches and safety eyes do not sit as well) and bags or pieces that need firm structure. For socks, a specific reinforced sock yarn is better, and for amigurumi a cotton fibre with well-defined stitches.
Pure mohair or blended: why it is almost never used on its own
If you look at the label of any commercial ball, you will see that mohair almost always comes blended with silk, merino wool, polyamide or acrylic. The reason is technical: pure mohair has little elasticity, breaks easily in very fine strands and is difficult to work with without experience. Blends correct these limitations without losing the properties that make the fibre special.
Two specific examples from our catalogue — both lace weight, the most common weight for mohair — illustrate the two classic blends:
- Mohair with silk (DROPS Kid-Silk, 75% super kid mohair + 25% silk): the silk adds drape, enhanced lustre and extra strength without adding weight. Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certified. It is the leading blend for airy garments.
- Mohair with merino and polyamide (Gazzal Super Kid Mohair, 47% kid mohair + 31% superwash merino + 22% polyamide): the merino adds elasticity and structure, while the polyamide strengthens the strand so it does not break. As direct importers of Gazzal, we can confirm that this composition is especially forgiving for anyone new to mohair.
Another very common practice is knitting mohair held double with another base yarn — usually a merino or an alpaca. By holding one strand of mohair together with a main wool yarn, you get the halo and visual volume of mohair without giving up the structure of the base yarn. This is the technique many Nordic designers use in their patterns.
How to care for mohair garments so they last for years
Mohair, when properly cared for, lasts for years without losing its halo, but it is sensitive to machine washing and heat. The rules are few but firm: hand wash in cold water, dry flat, store folded and revive the halo with brushing or steam when the garment loses its airiness with wear. At Garmon Yarns, we include these recommendations on every mohair product page to avoid disappointment after the first wash.
- Hand wash in cold water with a neutral detergent or mild shampoo. Hot water and aggressive movement will felt the fibre.
- Dry flat on a towel, shaping the garment. Never hang it up: the weight of the water would stretch the fabric.
- Gentle brushing with a fine-bristled brush to restore the halo after several wears. This is done dry, with the garment laid flat.
- Store folded, not hung up. Hangers mark the shoulders and mohair has memory.
- Steam from an iron without contact to refresh the halo: it fluffs up the fibres without damaging them.
Conclusion: common objections and when it is worth it
Before finishing, it is worth clarifying the two questions we are most often asked about mohair: whether it sheds and whether it is expensive. Good mohair does shed a little at first, and its price per ball seems high until you calculate it by knitted metre. Once these two realities are understood, the fibre wins people over very easily.
“It sheds”. Yes, it does. This is a characteristic of the fibre, not a defect in a particular ball. All mohairs shed a little while you knit — paradoxically, higher-quality ones even more so, because the halo is longer — and also during the first wears of the finished garment. After two or three gentle washes, the fibre stabilises and stops shedding. Practical tip: do not knit with mohair while wearing black clothing if you plan to wear the finished garment over something else.
“It is expensive”. Compared with an acrylic, yes. Compared with other natural fibres, and especially by metreage, it is one of the best-value fibres. A 25 g ball of mohair gives between 200 and 240 metres; an equivalent ball of merino in the same weight would barely reach half that. For an adult jumper in size M, 3 balls of mohair are usually enough if it is knitted in a single strand, compared with the 5–6 you would need in other fibres.
You have now seen what mohair is, which types exist, how it behaves when knitted and what care it needs. Our recommendation, after years of working with the fibre: yes, it is worth it, but not as a first yarn. The halo disguises the stitches and makes unpicking harder, so it is best to be comfortable with the basic stitches before making the leap. When that moment comes, you will notice it straight away: lightness, elegant drape, warmth without weight and that “special garment” effect that other fibres cannot achieve. In the complete collection of mohair yarns, you will find the options currently available at Garmon Yarns.
Frequently asked questions about mohair
Does mohair itch?
Kid mohair and super kid mohair hardly itch at all, because their fibre thickness is below 27 microns, which is the threshold at which a fibre starts to feel rough against the skin. Adult mohair can feel itchy, but it is a category that is hardly ever used in hand knitting. If you buy mohair labelled as “kid” or “super kid”, you can wear it directly against the skin without any problem.
What is the difference between mohair and angora?
They are two different fibres from two different animals. Mohair comes from the Angora goat, it is a long fibre with a halo and is used in lightweight, airy garments. Angora comes from the hair of the Angora rabbit, it is a shorter, finer fibre, extremely warm but much more prone to shedding from the fabric. The confusion comes from the name: both animal breeds were named after the Angora region (Turkey), but they are not related.
How many balls of mohair do I need for a jumper?
As a general guide, an adult jumper in size M knitted in a single strand of lace mohair needs between 3 and 4 balls of 25 g (around 600–950 metres). If it is knitted in two strands combining mohair with another wool yarn, you will need between 3 and 4 balls of each. It is always advisable to buy one extra ball than the pattern indicates, from the same dye lot, so you do not run short when finishing. On Garmon Yarns product pages, you have a yarn calculator to help you work out how many you need for any size.
Can mohair be crocheted?
Yes, but it is not the technique that makes the most of the fibre. Mohair’s halo hides the definition of crochet stitches, which is precisely what makes that technique attractive. It works reasonably well in lace shawls, stoles and pieces made with loose treble crochet, but for granny squares, amigurumi or any piece with defined stitches, a cotton yarn is better.
What is the difference between mohair and mohair with silk?
Pure mohair retains 100% of its halo and lightness properties, but it is harder to work with and less durable. Mohair with silk — usually in a 75/25 or 70/30 ratio — adds drape, slightly more lustre and greater yarn strength. It is the most common combination in the premium market because it balances the limitations of pure mohair without giving up the halo or the lightness.
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