Table of contents
Knitting lyocell has gone in just a few years from being a curiosity to becoming one of the favourite fibres for summer garments and sustainable projects. Anyone who has tried it in ball form recognises it straight away: silky feel, fluid drape, subtle sheen and a cool sensation that few plant fibres can match. In this guide, we explain what knitting lyocell is, how it differs from Tencel, how it behaves on the needle and which projects it is worth using for.
At Garmon Yarns, we have been working for months with yarns that include this fibre, so everything you will read below comes from handling them and knitting swatches, not simply from repeating what the manufacturer’s technical sheet says. If you want to go straight to the catalogue, here is our selection of lyocell and Tencel yarn.
What exactly is lyocell and why is it also called Tencel?
Lyocell is a regenerated cellulosic fibre made from wood pulp (mainly eucalyptus) through a closed-loop process with solvent recovery above 99%. TENCEL™ is the registered trade name used by Lenzing for its own lyocell line. All Tencel is lyocell, but not all lyocell is Tencel.
The distinction matters more than it seems. When a label says “100% TENCEL™ Lyocell”, you are looking at a fibre with verified traceability, FSC®- or PEFC-certified wood and Lenzing’s closed-loop process, as verified in the official Lenzing technical documentation. When it simply says “lyocell”, the fibre belongs to the same chemical family, but it may come from another manufacturer without those associated certifications.
For a knitter or crocheter, the difference shows in three things: the yarn’s uniformity, the final sheen of the fabric and how it behaves after repeated washing. TENCEL™ usually comes in blends with stricter quality controls; generic lyocell can produce more variable results.
What properties does knitting lyocell have when it goes on the needle?
Knitting lyocell combines properties from very different fibres: it has a silky feel like viscose, a fluid drape like bamboo, coolness comparable to linen and greater dry strength than cotton. In ball form it is soft and slightly lustrous; on the needle it glides well, does not itch and does not fray easily.
These are the specific characteristics you will notice as soon as you start working with a yarn that contains it:
- Silky, soft feel. It is the first reaction when you open a ball. It does not itch, glides very well on the needle and feels very pleasant from the very first row. An excellent option for sensitive skin, babies and garments worn directly next to the skin.
- Fluid, elegant drape. Lyocell drapes. Garments fall naturally over the body, behaving very differently from pure cotton, which has more body and less movement.
- Subtle natural sheen. It gives a satin-like finish, more understated than mercerised cotton and less obvious than classic viscose. A sheen that adds elegance without looking flashy.
- Natural moisture management. According to data published by Lenzing, the fibre absorbs around 50% more moisture than conventional cotton. In summer garments, this translates into a cool feel and dry skin even on hot days.
- High dry strength. It is one of the strongest cellulosic fibres in the textile sector, so yarns with lyocell stand up well to knitting tension and age better than traditional viscose.
- Moderate growth after washing. Like any fibre with drape, a knitted swatch changes when wet: it gains weight, stretches slightly and settles. Knitting a swatch, washing it and measuring it afterwards is not optional, it is essential.
If we speak in specific terms, a DK yarn with lyocell (50 g and around 110 m per ball) is usually worked with 3.00 mm to 4.00 mm needles and gives a typical tension of 20 stitches by 20 rows over 10 × 10 cm knitted in stocking stitch. These are guideline figures based on our experience with this type of blend; what is stated on the label of the ball in your hand always takes priority.
How does knitting lyocell differ from other plant fibres?
Compared with other plant fibres, knitting lyocell sits in a balanced middle ground: it outperforms cotton for drape and sheen, beats classic viscose for durability and sustainability, and comes close to bamboo for coolness without sacrificing strength. That versatility explains both its success and its price, which is slightly higher than that of standard cotton.
The following table summarises the key differences so that you have the full picture before choosing your yarn:
| Fibre | Feel | Drape | Sheen | Coolness | Best use |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lyocell / Tencel | Silky, soft | High, fluid | Subtle, satin-like | Very high | Tops, camisoles, shawls, garments with movement |
| 100% cotton (such as Scheepjes Cahlista) | Matt, natural | Medium | Low | High | Amigurumi, bags, structured garments |
| Mercerised cotton | Soft, compact | Medium | High | High | Colourful amigurumi, granny squares, details |
| Bamboo (such as DROPS Bomull-Lin) | Very soft | High | Natural, soft | Very high | Tops, shawls, drapey garments |
| Linen | Rustic, with body | Medium-low | Low | Very high | Bags, accessories, everyday garments |
| Classic viscose | Very soft | Very high | Intense, silky | High | Tops and very fluid garments |
Lyocell compared with classic viscose
They are close cousins. Both are regenerated cellulosic fibres, both come from wood pulp and both feel very similar to the touch. The difference lies in the process: traditional viscose uses more aggressive solvents and does not always operate in a closed loop; lyocell uses amine oxide and recovers more than 99% of the solvent. In the finished yarn, lyocell usually behaves slightly better under repeated washing: it holds its shape better and pills less with wear.
Lyocell compared with cotton
Cotton remains the benchmark among plant fibres, but lyocell wins for drape, sheen and moisture absorption. Cotton wins for dimensional stability and the variety of finishes available on the market. That is why cotton + lyocell blends are so popular: they combine the structure of cotton with the fluidity and softness of the regenerated fibre.
Which projects are a good fit for knitting with lyocell?
Knitting lyocell really shines in anything that needs movement, coolness and an elegant finish: tops, camisoles, shawls, baby garments and vegan projects. It is not the best option, however, for amigurumi or structured bags, because its drape, which is an advantage in garments, becomes a drawback when the project needs to hold its shape without stretching.
Looking at it in more detail, these are the types of project where knitting lyocell performs best:
- Summer tops and camisoles. Its drape and moisture-regulating ability make the garment feel cool even on hot days. If you are looking for inspiration, take a look at our spring-summer yarns, where lyocell sits alongside cotton, bamboo and linen.
- Lightweight shawls and wraps. The natural drape enhances lace patterns and open meshes. A lyocell-and-cotton shawl falls beautifully over the shoulders without feeling heavy.
- Baby garments and sensitive skin. Because it does not itch and is hypoallergenic, it is ideal for delicate skin. You can combine it with other options from our baby yarn collection.
- Vegan projects. As it is 100% plant-based in origin, it suits projects that completely avoid animal fibres. In our experience, it is one of the most convincing fibres for anyone seeking ethical alternatives without giving up softness.
- Lace patterns and open structures. The fibre’s subtle sheen helps lace stitches show up more clearly, and its drape prevents the garment from “dying” when blocked.
To give you an idea of quantities: a women’s size M summer top in stocking stitch using a DK lyocell blend needs between 500 and 700 metres, which equals about 5–7 balls of 50 g, depending on size, design and tension. A medium shawl is usually around 400–500 metres. These are guideline ranges based on common summer patterns; it is always sensible to add 10–15% to the estimate for contingencies.
Is knitting lyocell really a sustainable fibre?
Yes, with some nuances. Knitting lyocell is currently one of the plant fibres with the best documented environmental balance: wood from FSC®- or PEFC-certified forests, a closed-loop process with solvent recovery above 99%, biodegradable and compostable, and OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certification commonly available. No fibre has zero impact, but lyocell certainly has strong arguments in its favour.
Let us look more closely. According to official information published by Lenzing, TENCEL™ Lyocell is certified as biodegradable and compostable in industrial, home, soil, fresh water and marine conditions. The wood comes from FSC®- or PEFC-certified forests, and the production process recovers more than 99% of the solvent. The finished textile usually complies with the OEKO-TEX® Standard 100, which guarantees the absence of harmful substances.
Compared with conventional cotton, lyocell uses less water (eucalyptus wood grows without intensive irrigation) and fewer pesticides. Compared with petroleum-derived synthetic fibres, the environmental benefit is far greater: synthetics take decades to break down; lyocell, a matter of months under controlled conditions.
If you would like to explore other options with a similar philosophy, at Garmon Yarns we also have a collection dedicated to recycled fibres and another with GOTS certification, so that you can choose according to the environmental commitment you prioritise for each project.
Which other fibres is knitting lyocell blended with, and why?
Knitting lyocell is rarely sold as 100% fibre in hand-knitting yarns. It is more common to find it blended with cotton, bamboo, linen or wool, because blending helps balance small limitations and enhance its strengths. The most popular blend is with cotton, followed by bamboo for very lightweight summer garments.
These are the blends we see most often in the sector catalogue:
- Lyocell + cotton. The most common blend. Cotton provides stability and structure; lyocell adds drape, subtle sheen and coolness. It is the ideal combination for tops, camisoles and mid-season garments.
- Lyocell + bamboo. Maximum coolness and drape. Interesting for shawls and lightweight summer garments where thermal comfort and drape are the priority.
- Lyocell + linen or silk. Higher-end options with very sophisticated finishes. Linen adds rustic character and absorbency, while silk enhances the sheen.
- Lyocell + wool. Less common, but useful for mid-season garments where a little warmth is wanted without losing drape.
One specific example we stock at Garmon Yarns: Morning Salutation Vegan by Kremke Soul Wool, with 51% TENCEL™ Lyocell and 49% combed Greek cotton. It is a DK yarn in 50 g balls with approximately 110 m, certified to OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 Class I (the strictest class, suitable even for babies aged 0 to 3) and with a 100% plant-based composition.
In swatch form it knits up easily, the real-life colour is slightly softer than on screen but improves after blocking, and the drape becomes noticeable from the fifth or sixth centimetre of knitting onwards. It sums up very well what you can expect from a good lyocell blend: soft, drapey, cool and easy to knit.
How do you care for a garment knitted with lyocell?
A garment knitted with lyocell should be cared for by machine washing on a delicate cycle at a maximum of 30°C, using a mild detergent, and always drying it flat on a towel. Avoid tumble drying and direct ironing. By following these four rules, the garment will keep its softness and sheen wash after wash, and it will age better than one made from classic viscose.
Looking at each point in more detail:
- Machine wash on a delicate cycle, maximum 30°C. Ideally inside a mesh laundry bag to prevent rubbing against other garments.
- Mild detergent with no optical brighteners. Harsh detergents damage the fibre’s natural sheen and may speed up the appearance of pilling.
- Dry flat, on a towel. This is the golden rule for all garments with drape: hanging them causes distortion, drying them flat helps them regain their original shape.
- Avoid tumble drying and direct ironing. If you need to iron it, do so inside out, on a low setting and preferably with a cloth in between.
- Take extra care with larger garments. They may relax a little after the first wash; knitting a swatch, washing it and measuring it afterwards is especially important for jumpers, dresses or loose-fitting garments.
Conclusion: is knitting lyocell worth trying?
Absolutely yes. If you are looking for a plant fibre with a silky feel, fluid drape, real coolness and a sustainability story that can be verified, knitting lyocell is a safe bet. It does not replace cotton, bamboo or linen, but it occupies its own place among them, especially for garments with movement, summer tops, shawls and projects for sensitive skin. And if you are concerned about the environmental impact of the materials you craft with, few plant fibres come with the certifications and production process of TENCEL™ Lyocell.
Whenever you would like to try it, at Garmon Yarns we have a carefully selected range of lyocell and Tencel yarns so that you can choose according to the project you have in mind.
Frequently asked questions about knitting lyocell
Is lyocell the same as Tencel?
Not exactly. Lyocell is the generic name for the regenerated cellulosic fibre obtained from wood pulp through a closed-loop process. TENCEL™ is the registered trade name used by Lenzing, the world’s leading manufacturer, for its own lyocell. Therefore, all Tencel is lyocell, but not all lyocell is Tencel. Tencel usually comes with FSC®/PEFC certifications and verified traceability that generic lyocell does not always guarantee.
Does knitting lyocell shrink when washed?
It may shrink slightly on the first wash, especially if washed above 30°C or tumble dried. In blends with cotton, shrinkage is usually less noticeable. To avoid surprises, it is essential to knit a swatch, wash it following the manufacturer’s instructions and measure it afterwards, especially for larger garments, which may also relax a little with washing.
Is it a good fibre for summer knitting?
Yes, it is one of the best options for summer garments. It absorbs moisture very efficiently (according to data published by Lenzing, around 50% more than conventional cotton), it is breathable and it helps regulate body temperature. It works especially well for camisoles, tops and lightweight shawls. You can see it in action in our spring-summer yarns collection.
Is knitting lyocell suitable for sensitive skin and babies?
Yes. It does not itch, it has a very soft feel and it is naturally hypoallergenic. In addition, it discourages bacterial growth thanks to its ability to regulate moisture, which makes it interesting for clothing worn directly against the skin. Yarns certified to OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 Class I are specifically tested as safe for babies aged 0 to 3 years.
Which needle size do you recommend for a yarn with lyocell?
It depends on the yarn weight, not on the composition. For a DK yarn with lyocell, the usual needle sizes are between 3.00 mm and 4.00 mm, with a typical tension of 20 stitches by 20 rows over 10 × 10 cm. As lyocell glides very well, it is best to knit without pulling the yarn too tightly to avoid marks. We always recommend checking the tension stated on the ball band and adjusting it to your personal tension.
Vegan yarn: plant-based and synthetic alternatives for knitting without animal fibres
What merino wool is: a complete guide to properties and care
Artículos relacionados
