Crochet for Beginners: 20 Projects to Learn to Crochet

If you’re thinking about buying the book Crochet for Beginners: 20 projects to learn how to crochet, it’s an especially good fit if you want a guide that sets out a clear path and removes common beginner doubts (where to start, what to practise first, and how not to get “stuck”). It’s also useful if you’ve already made a few swatches but you lack a method to turn what you’ve learned into finished pieces and build consistency. As a book, it works best when you treat it like a plan: small, repeated steps, not a quick read.

To get the most out of it, the most realistic approach is to set aside short, frequent sessions. 20–40 minutes several days a week is better than one long session that leaves you exhausted. If a stitch isn’t working, don’t carry on “blind”: repeat calmly, take notes, and practise just that movement until your hand memorises it. That habit speeds up progress the most, regardless of your starting level.

Before buying Crochet for Beginners: 20 projects to learn how to crochet, it’s worth having a basic kit so you don’t stall halfway through practice. You don’t need to fill a toolbox: a few well-chosen items are enough to help you move forward and, above all, repeat exercises without fighting your materials. If you’re comparing the price of Crochet for Beginners: 20 projects to learn how to crochet, bear in mind that part of your “success” when starting out depends on using a comfortable yarn and crochet hook.

For beginners, it’s best to choose a medium-weight yarn and a crochet hook that feels comfortable in your hand (without being too fine). And to avoid frustration, add the essentials for fastening off and keeping track of stitches:

• ▷ Small scissors
• ▷ Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
• ▷ Stitch markers
• ▷ Tape measure

With this, you can practise, measure, correct and finish pieces without needing anything else.

When you’re considering buying Crochet for Beginners: 20 projects to learn how to crochet, a common question is whether you should follow the materials “to the letter” or whether you can adapt them. The practical rule is: the more of a beginner you are, the more it helps to use a stable yarn that doesn’t split and can be unravelled without getting damaged. Your crochet hook should match the yarn weight so the fabric doesn’t end up either stiff as cardboard or loose with no shape.

To choose well, focus on three things: stitch definition (you can see the rounds clearly), ease of unravelling (to correct mistakes), and comfort in the hand (so it doesn’t tire you out). If you change yarn weight, assume the project’s size and drape will change too; that’s why it’s a good idea to make a quick swatch before you begin. That swatch saves you hours: it shows whether your tension is too tight, whether you need to go up or down a hook size, and whether you like the look of the fabric.

If you decide to buy the book Crochet for Beginners: 20 projects to learn how to crochet, it’s normal to get lost at some point: counting stitches, understanding a round, or interpreting an instruction. The most effective thing isn’t to “push on”, but to stop and check three things: where the round begins, how many stitches you should have, and which part of the piece you’re building (base, body, edging, etc.). Sometimes the mistake is tiny, but if you let it go, it multiplies in the following rounds.

When it happens, work methodically: mark the start of the round, count every few rounds, and jot down what you complete on paper. If you have to unravel, unravel without fear; it’s part of learning and it trains your eye. It also helps to learn to “read” your crochet: spotting chains, double/treble crochet stitches (UK) and increases by how they stack up. With that habit, you’ll rely less on the text and you’ll catch mistakes before they become big.

If you’ve already made a simple piece and you’re considering Crochet for Beginners by Sarah Shrimpton, before you decide, what usually matters is whether the book offers more than just “individual stitches”. In that case, the value tends to be in the structure: having a route that makes you practise with purpose, finish more neatly, and achieve a cleaner fabric. In other words, not just “knowing how to make stitches”, but getting more even results and more consistent finishing.

If you already have a foundation, use it as training: choose projects that push you to improve a specific skill (tension, edges, changes, finishing) and repeat them with variations. That builds real mastery and prepares you to move on to more demanding patterns without relying on tutorials for every step. It’s also a practical way to spot your recurring mistakes and fix them with a plan, instead of jumping between random projects.